In further reference books, note what I did to fix this. In the end, I think it was a strange symptom related to the wrong reference to the cucumber rails in the Gemfile.
I also got errors:
WARNING: Cucumber-rails required outside of env.rb. The rest of loading is being defered until env.rb is called. To avoid this warning, move 'gem cucumber-rails' under only group :test in your Gemfile
Following the instructions at https://github.com/cucumber/cucumber/issues/249 , I fixed this by adding require: false in my Gemfile as follows:
group :test do gem 'cucumber-rails', require:false
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