In addition to @ usr57368, the answer is - For devices created using -netdev, use -object filter-dump, ... instead of -net dump:
-object filter-dump,id=id,netdev=dev,file=filename][,maxlen=len]
Reset network traffic on netdev dev to the file specified in the file name. No more than len bytes are stored (default 64k). The file format is libpcap, so it can be analyzed using tools such as tcpdump or Wireshark.
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