First of all, you should use Capybara (replacement for Webrat). It is used to simplify and standardize the DSL used to interact with the browser, and provides some interesting features.
Although Selenium is a bit slow, it is easy to use to get started, as it comes bundled with Capybara. FYI: Firefox is the default.
Example support/env.rb :
require 'capybara/cucumber' Capybara.app_host = "http://your.app.com" Capybara.default_driver = :selenium
Now that you are using Capybara, you should use the capybara-webkit driver (a truly headless browser that uses Webkit backstage). There's a bit of tweaking there, but once you have done that, speed has improved from using Selenium.
Example support/env.rb :
require 'capybara/cucumber' Capybara.app_host = "http://your.app.com" Capybara.default_driver = :webkit
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